Buddha's Birthday

When we found out that we would be returning to Korea, I immediately started letting my mind wander to all the things I was looking forward to. We found out unusually early (2 years ahead) that we would be Busan bound, and honestly those dreams of what Korea would hold in store for me kept me going on many a difficult, frustrating Barbados day. No matter how rough it was, I could daydream of the adventures ahead.

I would dream of the food I was anxious to eat again (bibimbap, bulgolgi, kalbi), the snacks I looked forward to purchasing at the small corner convenience stores (melon bars, banana milk, peppero), and the places I wanted to visit (Gyeongju, Jeju Island, the DMZ). I would dream of the seasons I looked forward to enjoying, the vivid falls, the cherry blossoms of the spring. One of the things I would longingly think of was the celebration of Buddha's birthday that occurs each year (on the fourth day of the fourth month on the lunar calendar). 

When we lived in Seoul the first time, we arrived just in time for our first Buddha's birthday. Not having any clue what this means we happily agreed to join our amazing friends the Hamiltons at the Bongeunsa temple to enjoy the lanterns. We arrived to an experience beyond any other I had had. The entire temple ground (which is quite large) was literally draped with rows and rows of beautiful paper lanterns, brightly illuminated. A tiny 10 month old Emily sat in her stroller pointing up with awe at the bright colors dancing overhead. It was amazing.

The next year we were given tickets for VIP seating at the annual Lotus Lantern Parade in Seoul, quite near the Embassy. We spent a few hours, with now almost two year old Emily, watching the parade go by. It was amazing how long it lasted. The parade was a remarkable mixture of people and sights. There were groups of Buddhist monks marching with humble lanterns, groups of children with brightly colored lights, and amazing floats glowing in the night sky. There was dancing, traditional drum performances, and bands. 

Our third, and final Buddha's birthday in Seoul we opted to spend at a different temple. After having such fantastic experiences the previous two years we decided to never spend this holiday the same place twice. . .  a new experience for each year. We packed up now almost three year old Emily and our new baby Hannah and headed off with our friends the Thompsons to the Jogyesa temple. It is a smaller temple, but was just as amazing as our last two experiences. We wandered around under the blanket of glowing lanterns, watching people light incense, and bow in prayer. 

Coming to Busan, I knew I wanted to continue our tradition of enjoying this amazing cultural experience. This year we opted for the Haedongyonggunsa temple. This is amazing temple near our home that is literally carved into the side of a seaside cliff. As you wander the temple grounds you can hear the gently crashing of waves in the background, it provides quite a lovely setting. The entire walk down to the temple (10 minutes) was lined with glowing lanterns, increasing in number the closer we got to the main temple. The lanterns form almost a solid roof of glowing color overhead, casting unique shadows and reflections. People make donations in return for the lanterns, on which they print a simple prayer or wish. This year we enjoyed the temple lights with not one, not two, but three darling little girls. It had been two years since we experienced the temple lights, but in so many ways it felt like coming home, to an experience that I have come to love living here.

The girls lighting incense at the temple entrance.

Who knows where we are going to find ourselves for our fifth Buddha's birthday, but I am already excited for the possibilities! This is one part of Korean culture that I love and look forward to each year we spend in this country.