Lunar New Year

Lunar New Year (or Seolnal in Korean) is a big deal here in Asia. A lot of countries mark it's arrival with fireworks displays, parades, huge celebrations. Here in Korea it is more of a quiet family holiday. Though feeling a little disappointed to miss the colorful displays in other countries, I really respect that Koreans keep it simple and spend the day with family. Do holidays get much better than that?

Wanting to do something to celebrate we struggled trying to find something that was open, and that wouldn't keep us outside too much of the day given the freezing temperatures. We finally decided to spend the afternoon at the U.N. Memorial Cemetery Korea. Despite specifying it's location in Korea, it is the only U.N. Memorial Cemetery in the world. It is a beautiful cemetery in which remains from the Korean War are interred. There are over a dozen countries represented, and most countries have build small memorials recognizing the loss of their country and the dedication to the Korean people. Ironically no U.S. memorial. . . . Tyler's trying to work on that. Over 40,000 International Forces lives were lost; I'm not even sure if they have a definitive number of Korean (both North and South) and Chinese lives that were lost. Of the 40,000, a sobering 36,000 were American soldiers who died defending this country. It's really quite remarkable the sacrifices that were made for the freedom of this peninsula. And looking around it really is a beautiful, free, independent country. There are museums and monuments nationwide in thanksgiving for the freedoms afforded, this cemetery was a unique reminder of the loss of life. It was both somber and moving. I look forward to returning in the spring when the grass is green and the flowers are in bloom. Though in some ways the monotone winter colors seemed appropriate.

The Canadian Monument, so much symbolism. The serviceman depicted has no hat- eliminating the need for unit or service designation. The young Korean boy and girl each hold a bouquet of flowers. The maple leaves representing Canada and the roses of Sharon. Each bouquet holds 21 flowers- the number of Canadians who fell and have unmarked graves.

And empty field (for as far as you can see) that once held the remains of U.S. service members. The U.S. has a standing policy of repatriating remains to the families once the war is over. All U.S. service members once buried here have been returned to U.S. soil. The bare fields is a powerful visual marker though of the loss of life.

Huge U.N memorial marking the names of every service member who lost their lives in the Korea War. It is soberingly large. The U.S. section alone is massive. The wall is built from the same stone used to create the Vietnam Memorial in Washington D.C.

We ended the day enjoying a Koran food for dinner and taking the girls shopping for new hanboks. Hanboks are the traditional outfits worn for ceremonial and special events. Your first hanbok is purchased for your first birthday (dol). Both girls have hanboks from their first birthdays, but were anxious to have new ones that fit. We also picked out a hankbok for Madeline's dol, though you will have to wait until then to see her wearing it!